(To quote John Thorne, whom you should definitely read…)
The New Yorker has put up Bill Buford’s essay on learning how to be a Tuscan- style butcher (he used to be the editor of Granta, but this is a long way from haut- lit).
It will be part of this book, which I have already ordered.
If you are a cook of any real experience you can cook things from the essay, though there are no recipes!